As we crested a steep section on the climb up Engineer Pass, our ATV tilting back and sideways to crawl over boulders jutting out of the dirt road, we took in the type of mountain vista you’re rarely rewarded with if you don’t suffer through a brutal hike. Craggy gray peaks mingled with a rusty, iron-streaked mountain, layers of thick evergreen forests, and alpine pastures. A herd of sheep emerged over a rocky ridge and made its way across the road, bounding up the near vertical face on the other side, turning the scene into an impossibly bucolic moonscape.
If you can manage to drive southern Colorado’s famed Alpine Loop on a weekday, this is likely the only kind of traffic jam you’ll experience. The 63-mile, four-wheel-drive road traverses old mining routes, passes through multiple ghost towns, and connects Silverton, Lake City, and Ouray, gems of Colorado’s San Juan Mountains. It covers two iconic passes well above treeline: Engineer Pass, which tops out at 12,800 feet, and Cinnamon Pass, which reaches 12,600 feet. Engineer Pass is the more technical of the two, but with a moderate rating; even brave beginners can handle it.
Kristin Canning
I drove the loop last year in early September, and as someone with limited ATV/off-roading experience, I found it to be titillating enough without feeling sketchy. And if you time your visit right, you can look down on swaths of golden aspens in the valleys below the passes, and drive through the shimmering yellow leaves at lower elevations, all while earning a proper coating of dirt on your teeth and dust in your hair.
Aly Lopez
How to Drive the Alpine Loop in Southern Colorado
Ouray—nicknamed the “Switzerland of America” and home to several gorgeous hot springs—is an excellent place to set up home base. If you’re not bringing your own high-clearance vehicle or off-roading toys, you’ll need to rent. Altitude Adventures Side x Side Rentals and Colorado West Jeep and UTV Rentals are both highly rated.
Make sure you know where you can and can’t drive your OHV legally. From Altitude Adventures, you can quickly get on a connector 4×4 road, like Corkscrew Pass or Mineral Creek Road, and link up with the Alpine Loop from there. Depending on where you pick up your rental and where you want to begin the drive, you may need to trailer the OHV to your preferred starting point. Plan for higher milage when coming from Silverton.
Aly Lopez
Take the loop clockwise—that way you can go up the west side of Engineer Pass, the most technical portion of the drive, which can be even more challenging if you’re going downhill.
Pack plenty of water and food. The full loop took our group just shy of nine hours to complete. The speed limit is capped at 15 mph (though you’d be forgiven for speeding up a bit to splash through the puddles at lower elevation), and you’ll want to bake in time for photos and side trips. We packed our lunch—who doesn’t want to picnic with aspen trees at 10,000 feet? But stopping in Lake City to refuel and eat lunch is also highly recommended. There are bathrooms along the way at popular pull-off points, too.
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There’s barely any service along the Alpine Loop, so you should download a map on a GPS app, like onX Offroad, Gaia, or iOverlander, before you take off. With onX, which we used, you get frequently updated and detailed trail info that comes from real people who regularly scout the drives on the app. There are standardized trail ratings (green is easy, black is hard; the Alpine Loop is mostly blue). Map layers tell you where there’s dispersed camping, private land, and cell coverage, and alert you of weather, fires, smoke, and air quality. These apps are a great way to peruse and plan side quests like hikes, too.
Aly Lopez
When to Drive the Alpine Loop
Schedule your trip for mid-July if you want to see wildflowers, or late September for golden aspens. These peak seasons will be busier, but if you can swing a trip mid-week, you can still enjoy the trail mostly to yourself.
Aly Lopez
Where to Stop on the Alpine Loop
Lake City
The small town (population: 400) is often cited as the most remote city in the lower 48. It’s the only incorporated municipality in Hinsdale County, which is made up of roughly 96 percent federally protected public land. The old mining town is beautiful, quaint, and has some spooky cannibal prospector lore.
Lake San Cristobal
Just outside Lake City, you’ll find the second-largest natural lake in Colorado. Explore the tiny island in the middle via suspension bridge (a must), or stay longer to swim or stand-up paddle board.
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Animus Forks
This pristinely preserved mining ghost town sits at 11,200 feet and features placards that offer background for the in-tact structures and illustrate what life was like there during its boom in the 1880s.
Carson and Old Carson
More eerie ghost towns, remote Carson and Old Carson straddle the Continental Divide, and require a short, rough drive off the main Alpine Loop to see them.
Kristin Canning
Where to Stay Near the Alpine Loop
There are tons of beautiful campgrounds around Ouray. Ironton Park dispersed camping is a favorite. You’ll stay by Red Mountain Creek, which runs orange from mine drainage. For something fancier, try the The Western Hotel, which features an underground sauna and soaking room called The Grotto.
Kristin Canning
Other Must-Do Activities Near the Alpine Loop
I’ve lived in Colorado since 2021, and have long loved the San Juan Mountains. If you have time outside of your drive, this is how you should spend it.
Hike Mt. Sneffels
One of the most scenic fourteeners (peaks over 14,000 feet) in the state, Sneffels is a bit more approachable because you can drive up a large portion of the trail in Yankee Boy Basin with an OHV, making the hike roughly 2.5 miles roundtrip. That being said, it’s not a walk in the park. The hike still has around 2,500 feet of elevation gain, loads of loose scree, and high potential for rockfall. Hikers should be experienced with Class 3 scrambling, meaning you’ll need to use your hands for the upper portions of the climb, too.
Visit Orvis Hot Springs
This lush oasis sits outside Ouray and welcomes guests to soak in a variety of secluded natural hot springs, clothing-optional. It’s beloved for its secret-garden-like quality, sauna, watsu massage, and camping. If you’re an overnight guest, you can relax in the springs after they’re closed to the public. If you want a more traditional soaking experience, try Ouray Hot Springs Pool, Wiesbaden Hot Springs Hotel and Spa (which has a vapor cave), or Box Canyon Lodge and Hot Springs.
Aly Lopez
Climb the Ouray Via Ferrata
You don’t have to be a seasoned rock climber to scale Uncompahgre Gorge, which is known for ice climbing competitions in the winter. Rent a harness, helmet, and safety lanyard from one of the many nearby outfitters, and explore the canyon vertically via the iron rungs, ladders, and bridges built throughout. Not for those with a fear of heights!
Hike Island Lake and Ice Lake
If you thought Lake San Cristobal was beautiful, you’ll love Island Lake outside Silverton. It’s one of the most famous views in Colorado for a reason: turquoise water, a rocky island in the middle, sharp peaks rising up all around. Don’t miss nearby Ice Lake, either; its Gatorade-blue water is truly otherworldly.
Aly Lopez
Have a beer at the Shady Lady Saloon
Formerly the last brothel in Silverton, this quirky bar is the perfect place to saddle up for a post-adventure drink.
Go fly-fishing at Bullion King Lake
Drive the 4×4 road up gorgeous Porphyry Basin to the upper parking lot, then hike your fishing gear a short distance to Bullion King Lake. In addition to being a great place to cast out for Colorado River cutthroat trout, this remote alpine area is the perfect place for a picnic, with epic views of Red Mountain.
Aly Lopez
Paddle at Alta Lakes and Molas Lake
The San Juan Mountains are spoiled with alpine lakes, and if you want to get on the water, Alta Lakes near Telluride and Molas Lake near Silverton are excellent options. Just note that to get to Alta Lakes, you’ll need a high-clearance 4×4 vehicle.
Hike Blue Lakes
This hike takes you to three stunning alpine lakes, but the best viewpoint is above Lower Blue Lake, which sits in a natural amphitheater. Don’t have time for another hike? Just drive up to the trailhead. The mountain views from this valley are well worth a visit.
Kristin Canning
Drive the Million Dollar Highway between Ouray and Silverton
This 25-mile stretch of road offers unreal views and thrills. A feat of engineering, the Million Dollar Highway is carved into a steep cliffside, with vertigo-inducing drop-offs, tight turns, and no guardrails. If you’re new to mountain driving, this road will test your mettle, and force you to slow down and enjoy the waterfalls and rock features along the way.
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